A Coba-Centric Mayan Adventure

Where have all the Mayans gone?

Too often you will hear people say the Maya have disappeared. Where did they go? Was it drought? Famine? War? Aliens? It is a mystery that begs an explanation and there are plenty of well-intentioned guides along with a few snake-oil salesmen who want to sell you their theory on the subject.

Look around you; in fact, it is not a mystery at all. The Maya are here, everywhere. And some of them are working hard to bring the ancient knowledge and traditions into the modern world, fighting prejudice, cultural discrimination, global conglomerates and business interests that threaten not only a way of life, but the environment in which they - and all of us - live.

A traditional home, with the typical oval shape and the thatched palm roof replaced by tar paper. No windows.

Let’s Meet the Modern Maya

On this journey, you will meet and spend time with some of the people involved in this difficult balancing act: keeping alive centuries-old traditions while carefully embracing the lures and challenges of modern society, a society that seems determined to move ever faster and superficially towards a great global homogenization.

Stopping in a traditional (there’s that word again) bakery complete with a wood fired oven, can be a part of the trip.

This is a fluid, relaxed and flexible private tour option, where we will experience projects and attractions run by local entrepreneurs, with the benefits going back to them directly. The itinerary is flexible and can be adjusted as per your time constraints and what you want to experience the most.

Potential Itinerary

Day 1 - A slow travel day from Merida, destination: Coba. We will take the non-toll highway to keep things interesting and make stops here and there along the way to see, hear and taste local life. Once we have arrived in Cobá, we will check into a family-run hotel. Dinner and free time and rest. The hotel is run by a local Mayan family by the way, and our staying there will give them - and not an international hotel conglomerate - the full benefit of our tourism.

Visiting a Mayan family in Xocchel, Yucatan

Day 2 - Rise and shine, breakfast and then off to a monkey sanctuary/preserve; several hundred hectares of land protected and dedicated to the habitat of howler and spider monkeys who may (or may not) be in the area. Depending on what fruit trees are producing, the monkeys will be closer or farther away. There will be a zip line followed by a short canoe paddle and then the potential to rappel down into a mysterious cenote on the property.

This is the Punta Laguna man who can identify and has named the monkeys by family and individuals.

By then you will be hungry and so our next stop is a Mayan village that has opened its doors to a very small number of visitors, so that they can experience actual life in a real Mayan community. Homes, gardens, plants, food; a delicious lunch is served outdoors under the shade of local vegetation. Alternatively, a visit to a local chef who has a milpa, will explain the concept and together with guests, harvest what is in season and proceed to lead a cooking class. And of course, a great meal to follow. From either of these options, it’s back to the hotel for R&R. Dinner and rest.

Cooling off in a tiny Mayan enclave in the jungle, where a small group of families receive guests

Day 3 - This day can be a Cobá archeological site with a knowledgeable local Mayan guide who will explain the site in a way not typical of your average schooled tourist guide. Very fascinating. Afterwards, a cenote dip to refresh and then check out of the hotel and back to Merida. OR stay a third night, visiting two cenotes instead of just one. There is also the option of potentially visiting an unrestored Mayan site for the more adventurous and Indy Jones types out there.

The inevitable photo op with the kids

At some point on Day 3 or Day 4, head back to Merida this time on the toll road to be able to witness the progress of the coming Mayan Train, whose construction is causing unnecessary damage to the ecosystem amid enticing promises of work and economic opportunity for the mostly Mayan people in villages and towns along its path.

Below, some scenes from a recent visit by a Canadian family who chose this tour to round out their visit to the Yucatan peninsula.